When my partner and I stayed in Sintra last month, one of the places we were excited about going was Pena Palace. Our hotel’s host told us, “It’s nice…but the Quinta da Regaleira Palace is better.” I ended up visiting both, and if you’re curious if which one’s worth the visit, look no further!

Pena Palace

Sintra is a town set on the side of a mountain, and the top of the mountain is crowned by Pena Palace. Originally erected in the 12^th century as a site that held a chapel dedicated to Our Lady of Pena (“pena” in Portugese translates roughly into “pity”), it has seen over centuries buildings added by kings and damaged by earthquakes; it now serves as a tourist’s attraction, as a place of beauty sitting within a national park.

You can get in without a tour, but not a ticket; some places are reserved for those with special tickets with add-ons, which will cost a little more. The views of the countryside that you can see are absolutely fantastic. I found myself struck by the boldness of the designs; overly-ornate painted tiles were glazed onto keyhole-shaped 20-foot doorways; the mustard yellow and terracotta red buildings are striking, even our taxi driver from the airport was able to point them out from the highway in Lisbon.

This place was beautiful, but was a bit difficult to get to—the entrance to the palace is basically an open door where taxis and crowds enter. Once you’re in (past the gift shop and bathrooms) it’s an uphill climb on concrete for about 15 to 20 minutes before you actually get to the structures. Having said that, there are plenty of places to stop and rest; stone-carved benches, man-made parks, and wooden steps are all ideal places to catch your breath.

At the top of the mountain, in the castle, you’ll find lots to explore—including a gift shop and a café where you can rest before your journey back down the mountain. Tickets are 20 euros for adults, and I recommend buying ahead of time to cut down on the time you’ll spent in line. Once you’re done, busses are available back down through town (but in my experience the demand for them meant waiting a long time; try a taxi or a tuk-tuk if you’re in a hurry!).

Quinta da Regaleira Palace

I’d never heard of this palace before I went to Sintra, and I was so glad to discover it as part of my travels.

Unlike Pena Palace, where it felt as though the walking traffic was moving in one direction (up the hill, to the castle), the Quinta da Realeira split off into multiple paths right away. This felt less like a single-focus spot, and more like a choose-your-own-adventure book. Did I want to walk through the Gothic-style chapel? Take in the sights from within the Palace? Tour the sculpture garden? Inspect the mosaic-covered bathhouse? Take a walk through the cave, which ended at the mouth of a waterfall? This UNESCO World Heritage site had so many things to offer, I found myself doubling back several times to ensure I hadn’t missed anything.

Because of its grand scale, even though there were probably over a thousand people there when I was, I didn’t feel crowded—not until I got to the famous Iniciatic Well. This 9-floor spiral staircase at the top of a hill leads down into an underground cave 27 meters below ground. Its entrance is between two massive boulders, and it’s said that the architect followed the principal of nosce te ipsum (Latin for “Know Thyself”). Because of the limited space, you might want to skip this one if you get claustrophobic; descending down into less and less light, while having less than a foot of space behind and in front of you, can be a little challenging. But if you’re up for it, this was one of the coolest parts of the park to experience!

Tickets for this experience (with no tour) are 19.50 euros, and I would definitely recommend buying them ahead of time and not day-of; when I visited, all the slots were sold (they don’t hold any back), so I had to visit on another day.

So – Which One Should I Visit?

My verdict is that if you have time, they’re both worth the price of admission—but if you only have time for one castle, I’d say that the Palace da Regaleira was my favourite. The ornate structures blended seamlessly with nature; the structures were so well-kept that I felt as though I could have been just as easily walking through a royal garden 100 years ago.

Having said that, both palaces offered something different, but everything I love about a proper tourist attraction; a mix of nature and architecture, lots of places to rest, and amazing views of the township. So if you’re in Sintra, add these palaces to your itinerary!